To react or to not react: Fashion’s response to Ukraine

The return to physical fashion shows did not go as planned for luxury brands. While some were getting ready to celebrate, others were about to lose everything.

From February 11th to March 8th, the fashion industry gathered in the main fashion capitals for the first time since the pandemic started. Until now, most shows were being presented digitally, something devastating for an industry whose most significant assets are the show, the cameras, the entertainment. This time, while Milan Fashion Week was taking place, the world stood still while witnessing the current situation in Ukraine.

Two events simultaneously happening in the same continent but with very different meanings; one celebrates beauty and artistic freedom, the other has the world confused and scared. Immediately, Instagram feeds got overloaded with photos of Ukrainian people seeking shelter on the subways, and escaping the country, while, at the same time, well-dressed VIPs were attending luxury events.

Only two designers broke the silence and made a statement about the current situation: Francesca Liberatore, who asked the VIPs to do a minute of silence for the Ukrainian people and Giorgio Armani who called off the music of his show, claiming that “(his) decision not to use any music in the show was made as a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine”.

However, little response from the fashion industry was observed at the outset of the conflict. As if they were oblivious of what was happening, most brands continued their schedule without hesitation, which made many people think: Is fashion immune to the war? Since then, followers have filled in the comments sections of leading luxury companies with Ukrainian flags, urging the industry to take more significant actions. In an interview with Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, Fashion historian and writer of the book: Fashion, Society and the First World War – International Perspectives, she claimed that “fashion itself is a powerful industry with an extensive economy. Fashion cannot remain passive in the course of events that are upsetting our society; fashion is indeed concerned”.

The show must go on

Today, between catwalks, dinners, expensive outfits, parties, luxury hotels and VIP treatment, fashion landscape contrasts with the situation of the eastern European country. As we move along with Paris Fashion Week and celebrate creation and beauty, the show has not stopped for a second. Giancarlo Giammetti, the co-founder of Valentino, posted a series of photos on Instagram showing the incompatibility of Fashion Weeks with the situation in Ukraine. “The illogical lack of compatibility between fashion shows and the Ukraine situation is something that has to be addressed… The disparity is hurting”, he wrote under the images.

On the other hand, Ralph Toledano, President of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, released a statement in which he declared that “given the present context, we encourage you to experience the shows of the coming days with solemnity, and in reflection of these dark hours”. However, the truth is that, after two years of digital shows no one wanted to cancel this big celebration.

According to Hayley, “fashion is a very powerful industry, if we shut everything down there will be disastrous consequences, the economy must go on. However, treating fashion week as if nothing had happened; with selfies and the “wow, factor“ at fashion shows, I don’t think is correct. Fashion shows can be used to send strong messages or to take a stand.”

However, not many brands made any statements during their fashion shows. Indeed, it took longer than expected to see the industry react to what was happening. A few brands gave some shy reactions aiming at the conflict initially, posting white squares and peace signs on their Instagram feeds. For Edwards, “it’s not enough. Even though brands today can’t choose not to play the game of social media, we are not going to stop a war with hearts or «peace» signs”.

The first signs of help

Many brands have started collecting funds to help those in need. LVMH and Kering Groups have both announced the donations of considerable sums of money to Ukrainians affected by the war. Chanel, Dolce&Gabbana, Prada and Jacquemus have also sent donations to NGOs to help refugees, and many more are beginning to show signs of awareness.

One of the most reactive brands has been Balenciaga. Since the beginning of the conflict all their Instagram publications were deleted and their brand communications were put on hold. Their social accounts are now being used to provide information about the current situation. On their Instagram we can see a direct link to donate to World Food Program (WFP) and the Ukrainian flag with the statement: “We stand for peace and donate to WFP to support first humanitarian help for Ukrainian refugees. We will open our platforms in the next days to report and relay the information around the situation in Ukraine”.

But, how far will fashion go on its venture to show that they care? Editor in Chief of BOF, advised in an article he wrote for the media that “brands could close their Russian shops and decline to ship products to Russia from their online stores. As Russia only represents two to three percent of the global luxury fashion market, this would be a largely symbolic move”. Brands are slowly realizing this; Hermès, Nike, H&M and Nanushka announced that they have ceased their activities in the big country.

Today, as the conflict exacerbates and the world yearns for an urgent solution, brands face a big dilemma; to speak or not to speak, to stay silent or to react, to take a stand, or to stay neutral. But the truth is that, in today’s world, neutrality does not exist; neutrality is just accepting what already exists.

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