To React or to Not React: Fashion's Response to Ukraine

The return to physical fashion shows did not go as planned for luxury brands. While some were preparing to celebrate, others were on the brink of losing everything.

From February 11th to March 8th, the fashion industry gathered in the main fashion capitals for the first time since the pandemic began. Until now, most shows had been presented digitally, which was devastating for an industry whose most significant assets are the live shows, the cameras, and the entertainment. During Milan Fashion Week, the world watched in shock as the current situation in Ukraine unfolded.

Two events simultaneously happen on the same continent but with very different meanings; one celebrates beauty and artistic freedom, and the other has the world confused and scared. Immediately, Instagram feeds got overloaded with photos of Ukrainian people seeking shelter on the subways, and escaping the country, while, at the same time, well-dressed VIPs were attending luxury events.

Two events happened simultaneously on the same continent, but with vastly different meanings. One event celebrated beauty and artistic freedom, while the other left the world confused and scared. As news of the crisis in Ukraine flooded Instagram feeds, images of well-dressed VIPs attending luxury events were also being shared. The stark contrast between these two events highlighted the disparity in privilege and access to safety that exists in our world today.

Out of all the designers who showcased their collections during the fashion weeks, only two broke their silence and made a statement about the ongoing crisis in Ukraine. Francesca Liberatore asked VIPs to do a minute of silence for the Ukrainian people, while Giorgio Armani opted to cancel the music for his show, explaining that his decision was "a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine."

However, at the outset of the conflict in Ukraine, most of the fashion industry remained largely silent. As if oblivious to the events unfolding, most brands continued with their schedules without hesitation, leading many to question whether fashion was immune to the war's impact.

However, in the wake of this indifference, followers began filling the comments sections of leading luxury companies with Ukrainian flags and urging the industry to take more significant actions. The message was clear: fashion cannot afford to remain passive in the face of global events that are impacting society at large.

Fashion historian and writer Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, author of the book Fashion, Society and the First World War - International Perspectives," emphasized that «fashion itself is a powerful industry with an extensive economy, and it cannot remain passive in the course of events that are upsetting our society; the industry is indeed concerned».

The show must go on.

As Paris Fashion Week unfolds, the contrast between the fashion landscape and the situation in Eastern Europe couldn't be starker. While catwalks, dinners, parties, luxury hotels, and VIP treatment abound, Ukraine continues to struggle amidst a crisis that has left many in fear.

Giancarlo Giammetti, the co-founder of Valentino, recently took to Instagram to highlight the jarring disparity between the world of fashion and the realities of the Ukrainian crisis. He posted a series of photos that juxtaposed the opulence of Fashion Week with the hard images of the conflict, and a caption that read, "The illogical lack of compatibility between fashion shows and the Ukraine situation is something that has to be addressed… The disparity is hurting."

On the other hand, Ralph Toledano, the President of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, issued a statement in which he encouraged attendees to approach the upcoming shows with solemnity and reflection "given the present context." But the reality is that after two years of digital shows, no one was eager to cancel this grand celebration.

According to Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, "Fashion is an incredibly powerful industry, and shutting everything down could have disastrous consequences for the economy. However, it's not appropriate to treat fashion week as if nothing has happened, with selfies and a focus on the 'wow factor' at shows. Fashion shows can be a platform to send strong messages or take a stand."

However, many brands did not make any statements during their fashion shows, and it took longer than expected for the industry to react to the situation. Some brands made timid gestures initially, such as posting white squares or peace signs on their Instagram feeds, but for Edwards, "it's not enough. While brands today can't afford to opt-out of social media, we cannot address a war with just hearts or 'peace' signs."

The first signs of help

Many brands have started collecting funds to help those in need. The LVMH and Kering Groups, for example, have announced substantial donations to support Ukrainians affected by the war. Other brands, such as Chanel, Dolce&Gabbana, Prada, and Jacquemus, have also sent donations to NGOs to assist refugees, and more brands are beginning to show signs of awareness.

One of the most reactive brands has been Balenciaga. Since the beginning of the conflict, all their Instagram publications were deleted, and their brand communications were put on hold. Their social accounts are now being used to provide information about the current situation. On their Instagram, we can see a direct link to donate to World Food Program (WFP) and the Ukrainian flag with the statement: “We stand for peace and donate to WFP to support first humanitarian help for Ukrainian refugees. We will open our platforms in the next few days to report and relay the information about the situation in Ukraine”.

But how far will the fashion industry go in showing that they care? The Editor in Chief of BOF advised in an article he wrote for the media that "brands could close their Russian shops and decline to ship products to Russia from their online stores. As Russia only represents two to three percent of the global luxury fashion market, this would be a largely symbolic move." And brands are slowly realizing this; Hermès, Nike, H&M, and Nanushka have announced that they have ceased their activities in the country.

Today, as the conflict exacerbates and the world yearns for an urgent solution, fashion houses face a big dilemma; to speak or not to speak, to stay silent or to react, to take a stand, or to stay neutral. But the truth is that, in today’s world, neutrality does not exist; neutrality is just accepting what already exists. And, while fashion may be a celebration of creativity and beauty, it cannot exist in isolation from the world around it.